Marilyn Hagerty, Who Charmed Bourdain with Olive Garden Review, Dies

Max Sterling, 9/17/2025Marilyn Hagerty, the beloved food journalist known for her viral Olive Garden review, has passed away at 99. Her straightforward writing style celebrated small-town authenticity, earning her unexpected fame backed by champions like Anthony Bourdain. Hagerty's legacy is a testament to honest storytelling in a complex world.

Remember that viral Olive Garden review? The one that had food snobs clutching their artisanal pearls? That was Hagerty's doing, though she'd probably chuckle at how something so ordinary could cause such a stir. Her straightforward assessment of the chain restaurant's chicken Alfredo as "warm and comforting on a cold day" sparked a social media firestorm that seems almost quaint by today's standards of manufactured outrage.

Her daughter Gail recalls with touching simplicity how her mother had to ask what "going viral" meant. "She used to say that if you were going to have 15 minutes of fame and if you were 86, you had to do it soon. You couldn't wait." There's something refreshingly honest about that perspective — especially now in 2025, when viral fame seems more calculated than ever.

Perhaps the most surprising twist in Hagerty's late-career renaissance came from an unlikely corner: Anthony Bourdain. The sharp-tongued culinary rebel, known for skewering mainstream American dining culture, became her unexpected champion. Not only did he defend her against online mockers, but he went on to publish a collection of her columns. Talk about a plot twist worthy of a streaming series.

Born in Pierre, South Dakota, back in 1926, Hagerty's journalism career started while she was still walking high school hallways. After earning her journalism degree from the University of South Dakota — an achievement that remained a point of pride throughout her life — she devoted more than seven decades to chronicling her community's story. Her commitment to local journalism feels particularly poignant now, as regional newspapers continue their struggle against digital disruption.

What set Hagerty's restaurant reviews apart wasn't sophisticated culinary analysis or trendy food-speak. Rather, she wrote with a practical mindset that's sorely missing in today's often overwrought food criticism. "She wanted to tell people what they would expect," her daughter explained — simple as that.

The famous Olive Garden piece? Dashed off on deadline, probably between other assignments. "I wrote that Eatbeat column so fast one day that I never expected it to be repeated all over the country," Hagerty admitted in a 2014 interview. Sometimes the best writing happens when we're not trying to impress anyone.

Her impact on Grand Forks stretched beyond the printed page. In 2002, the city dedicated a lift station in her honor — and true to form, she showed up on the back of a local restaurant owner's motorcycle. Because why not? She kept writing for the Grand Forks Herald until last year, proving that passion for storytelling doesn't come with an expiration date.

In an age where hot takes and artificial controversy dominate our feeds, Hagerty's straightforward approach to journalism feels like a breath of fresh air. Her legacy isn't just about that viral review or even her impressive seven-decade career — it's about the value of telling simple truths in a complicated world.

The passing of Marilyn Hagerty at age 99 marks the end of an era in American food journalism — one where authenticity trumped pretense, and small-town values stood proudly alongside big-city sophistication. The North Dakota newspaper columnist, who unexpectedly became an internet sensation in 2012, died Tuesday in Grand Forks following complications from a stroke.Remember that viral Olive Garden review? The one that had food snobs clutching their artisanal pearls? That was Hagerty's doing, though she'd probably chuckle at how something so ordinary could cause such a stir. Her straightforward assessment of the chain restaurant's chicken Alfredo as "warm and comforting on a cold day" sparked a social media firestorm that seems almost quaint by today's standards of manufactured outrage.Her daughter Gail recalls with touching simplicity how her mother had to ask what "going viral" meant. "She used to say that if you were going to have 15 minutes of fame and if you were 86, you had to do it soon. You couldn't wait." There's something refreshingly honest about that perspective — especially now in 2025, when viral fame seems more calculated than ever.Perhaps the most surprising twist in Hagerty's late-career renaissance came from an unlikely corner: Anthony Bourdain. The sharp-tongued culinary rebel, known for skewering mainstream American dining culture, became her unexpected champion. Not only did he defend her against online mockers, but he went on to publish a collection of her columns. Talk about a plot twist worthy of a streaming series.Born in Pierre, South Dakota, back in 1926, Hagerty's journalism career started while she was still walking high school hallways. After earning her journalism degree from the University of South Dakota — an achievement that remained a point of pride throughout her life — she devoted more than seven decades to chronicling her community's story. Her commitment to local journalism feels particularly poignant now, as regional newspapers continue their struggle against digital disruption.What set Hagerty's restaurant reviews apart wasn't sophisticated culinary analysis or trendy food-speak. Rather, she wrote with a practical mindset that's sorely missing in today's often overwrought food criticism. "She wanted to tell people what they would expect," her daughter explained — simple as that.The famous Olive Garden piece? Dashed off on deadline, probably between other assignments. "I wrote that Eatbeat column so fast one day that I never expected it to be repeated all over the country," Hagerty admitted in a 2014 interview. Sometimes the best writing happens when we're not trying to impress anyone.Her impact on Grand Forks stretched beyond the printed page. In 2002, the city dedicated a lift station in her honor — and true to form, she showed up on the back of a local restaurant owner's motorcycle. Because why not? She kept writing for the Grand Forks Herald until last year, proving that passion for storytelling doesn't come with an expiration date.In an age where hot takes and artificial controversy dominate our feeds, Hagerty's straightforward approach to journalism feels like a breath of fresh air. Her legacy isn't just about that viral review or even her impressive seven-decade career — it's about the value of telling simple truths in a complicated world.